Giveaway: Food Grown Right, In Your Backyard plus The Three Rules Small Space Gardeners Must Follow

In the Seattle urban farming scene, there are a couple of guys – Colin and Brad – who seem to be everywhere. They run the aptly named Seattle Urban Farm Company, and under that moniker set-up and maintain edible gardens in backyards and on restaurant rooftops around the city and teach countless workshops for beginning new gardeners.

I’m not sure where they found the time, but they also wrote a book. It’s called Food Grown Right, In Your Backyard: A Beginner’s Guide to Growing Crops at Home and it’s an excellent reference for the beginning small-space gardener.

Colin and Brad. Photo by Hilary Dahl, used with permission.

Since Colin and Brad are experts in the area of small space gardening, I was eager to ask them all the questions I hear most often from new urban and container gardeners. They were kind enough to obligue with the following thorough and informative answers.

Q: What are the three rules a limited-space urban gardener should follow for maximum harvest?

Sunlight Is King. Think about your plant’s access to sunlight and water before setting up your garden.  Your garden must receive at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day for healthy growth and productivity.  Think about your options for garden locations and consider sun exposure as the number one priority.  Second priority is to make sure that it will be easy for you to get water to your plants on a regular basis.  It is easy to end up carrying buckets of water through the house or knocking over pottery with an unwieldy hose, so take the time to figure out a watering system beforehand!

Feed Your Crops. Vegetables are “heavy feeders”.  This means that they absorb large amounts of nutrients from the soil as they grow.  In order to produce a maximum harvest, each crop needs an adequate supply of nutrients.  Nutrients are supplied by compost and organic fertilizers, and both should be added to your soil before each season begins (and if you are planting in a space more than one time in a season, add them again between each planting).

Space Plants Appropriately. Make sure to follow the plant’s (or seed’s) recommended spacing requirement.  Many beginning gardeners assume that, if they plant their crops closer together, then they will get more food per square foot.  But…that’s not quite how it works:  When crops are planted too closely together, they compete for sunlight, water and nutrients.  When forced to compete, plant growth is stunted, production is limited and crops are more susceptible to pest and disease pressures.  Remember, since the dawn of civilization, every gardener’s goal has been to maximize productivity in their given space.  Spacing requirements have developed through generations of trial and error, so take advantage of this experience and listen to your seed packet!

A surprising amount of food can be grown in a few terracotta pots.

Q: Which vegetables and specific varieties are great for small-space and container growing?

Certain crops give a higher yield per square foot of planting space, but it is also important to choose plants that you are really excited about growing (that will make them easier to take care of).

In smaller gardens we recommend planting (some of our favorite varieties in parentheses):

  • Head Lettuce (Deer Tongue, Flashy Trout Back)
  • Arugula (Rocket, Surrey)
  • Bush Beans (Provider, Royal Burgundy)
  • Summer Squash (Jackpot Zucchini, Zephyr)
  • Radishes (Cherriette)
  • Cilantro (Calypso)
  • Basil (Genovese)
  • Tomatoes (Sungold, Black Prince)

Sungold tomatoes ripen reliably and do well on sunny patios in a large pot.

Q: What containers can small space gardeners use? Should anything be avoided – are those tire towers and pallet gardens a safe option?

Almost anything can be used as a planting container as long as it holds soil and has adequate drainage.  That being said, certain materials are probably better than others.  It is hard to know the stability and safety of many plastic containers, so we often steer towards untreated wooden containers (especially rot-resistant woods like cedar) and clay pots (glazed pots will not dry out as quickly as unglazed terra cotta). Found and repurposed items like old cast iron bathtubs or even old trucks can make great large-size containers as long as drainage is attended to.

Pallets are typically made from untreated lumber, so they should be safe to use.  Avoid using chemically treated lumber in your containers or beds. Our tendency is to steer away from any materials that have an ongoing dispute about safety (pressure treated lumber, galvanized steel, random plastics, etc).  Many people say that tires are very stable and shouldn’t be a cause of concern, and it is always tempting to use materials that are otherwise going to the landfill, but we prefer to use materials in which we have a high level of confidence about their safety.

Get creative in your selection of containers. Photo: Seattle Urban Farm Co., from their exhibit at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show.

Q: What techniques do you use to maximize the harvest in a limited footprint?

Interplanting. Interplanting can take advantage of otherwise unused spaces.  A classic example is interplanting tomatoes and lettuce.  Tomatoes are a tall, long-season crop (they take several months to grow to maturity) and lettuce is a short in stature and short-season crop (it grows very quickly).  When planting your tomatoes, you seed or transplant lettuces around the base.  The lettuces will grow to maturity without affecting the growth of the larger tomato plant (and may actually benefit from some of the shading the tomato will provide).

 Add flowers. Find room to add a few flowers.  Many annual flowers will attract “beneficial insects” to your garden.  Beneficials are insects that prey on common garden pests.  By encouraging these helpful insects to your yard, you will reduce pest pressures on your crops, leading to healthier plants and larger yields (and a prettier garden)!  Good flower choices include:

  • Alyssum
  • Cosmos
  • Sunflowers
  • Bachelor Buttons
  • Marigolds
  • Cilantro (if you leave it in the garden to flower after harvesting the leaves)

Succession plant – sow little and often. Plan for succession plantings.  If you have an understanding of each crops lifespan (a basic guideline will be noted on seed packets as the “days to maturity”), then you can plan to fill in holes in your garden throughout the season as crops are harvested.  Many of the most popular crops  have a short lifespan and can be planted in the garden numerous times in the course of a single season.

Good examples of crops to succession sow:

  • Lettuce and other salad greens (arugula, mustard greens, spinach)
  • Radishes
  • Bush Beans
  • Kale and other cooking greens (chard, collards)
  • Beets
  • Carrots

A huge thank you the Brad and Colin for taking the time to lay out what beginning small space gardeners need to know to get the most from their backyard farm, even if that farm is only a few pots on the patio.

Food Grown Right, In Your Backyard – About The Book

Photo by Hilary Dahl, used with permission.

Colin and Brad hit all the key concepts for successful veggie growing in this book, and while many gardeners will find this work helpful, I think it really speaks to the unique needs of beginning, small-scale growers.

How do I shoehorn a tomato patch into my driveway if that’s the sunniest space I’ve got? How do I keep my crops watered in August if I want to go camping for four days? How much garden should I grow if I’m the only real veggie eater in the house? What about if all six of us love veggies? How do I build a raised bed? Ok, I built a raised bed – now how much soil do I need to fill it? Why did my lettuce plant grow a really long stem all of a sudden? How many beets should I grow?

These are questions I hear over and over, and Food Grown Right, In Your Backyard answers them and more, then throws in a pretty comprehensive crop profile encyclopedia at the end too. If you are in your first couple seasons of growing and you find yourself with more questions than answers when you look at your raised bed, or if the idea of vegetable gardening sounds great – until it sounds way too overwhelming to try – then this is the book for you.

More experienced and confident gardeners will probably already have much of the information in the book internalized, or may have already collected various references that go into similar content. It’s greatest strength is in demystifying the basics and presenting them as a comprehensive overview.

Get Your Own Copy

I’m always excited to do book reviews, because I really love books, but I’m happiest when those reviews come with goodies for my readers. The publishers of Food Grown Right, In Your Backyard are sending out a free copy of Colin and Brad’s book to one lucky NW Edible reader. To enter, leave a comment below with your biggest newbie gardening question. Hey, maybe if we’re lucky Brad and Colin will even drop by to answer a few of them! (No promises, though.)

And though it’s not strictly a requirement of entering this giveaway, I highly encourage you Facebooker’s to “like” the Seattle Urban Farm Co.’s Facebook page….not least because yesterday they gave away a $100 gift certificate for Bogs boots (possibly the best gardening boots in the world!). That’s a Facebook page that’s not joking around.

Contest open until Thursday, June 21st at 9 pm. Continental US residents only (sorry International readers – it’s only because of shipping). You can ask as many questions as you want, but only one entry per person will be counted. Good luck!

Update 6/21: Contest now closed. Winner to be announced soon. Thank you to everyone who entered – everyone asked awesome questions! 


  1. says

    My step son gardens in a very small space and one of his top three rules is “be ruthless”. In small space gardening you don’t have the luxury of letting things straggle on. To get the top production amount from his garden he ruthlessly pulls plants out after their prime even when they might have a bit of produce still to come. In this way he maximises the amount of food harvest from a small space.
    Here is the first post in the series of small space gardening where Izaac produces lots of food from only a few square metres.

  2. says

    How do coffee grounds work as fertilizer? What sort of properties does it have for soil amendment? Do they act as mulch if you put them on top of the soil? Sure seems to.

    Basically, if I put coffee grounds on my plants for awhile, will it only grow me gorgeous greenery with no fruits/veggies?

    • says

      Coffee grounds are a good soil amendment, but shouldn’t be added to the soil in great quantities or with great frequency. Because the grounds are very acidic, over-application will acidify the soil, making nutrients less available to your plants!

  3. Tina says

    The hardest problem I have with my small space garden is controlling pests. I had some beautiful beets the first year I planted which were full of grubs. I also have a lot of snails in my garden. I really hate those damn things!

  4. says

    I definitely want to know how to keep my garden watered properly, especially when I’d like to go out of town in the summer. Also, how to better succession plant.

  5. Nikki says

    How long does horse poop have to sit before it can be used in containers? How much/what proportion to regular garden center potting soil? Why did my poor tomato turn spotted, then yellow, then crisp?

  6. Michelle Marie says

    I am trying straw bale gardening this year. I seem to have a lot of volunteers coming up, likely from my homemade compost, and I am wondering if it might be a good idea to leave them to grow as my unplanned “succession planting” method? I think I need to do some thinning and I have not identified all the volunteers yet, but they are small and I really feel bad pulling growing plants!

    thank you!

  7. says

    I just saw these guys in a magazine last week and thought “I’d love that book”!

    My question: what is your favorite fertilizer for intensive small space gardening.

  8. Kimball says

    Can blueberries or huckleberries be grown in large containers so they can be moved?

  9. Amy says

    Do you mulch potted plants? I have some pole beans in pots and I haven’t mulched the tops…I noticed the dirt gets really hard and tends not to absorb water that I give them every day…maybe I’m just using the wrong type of soil though……I”m very new to this container garden thing.

  10. says

    My husband has a raised-bed garden that gets larger year by year. Every year he (we) have a problem that perplexes us. Last year we had great cucumber plants with no cukes on them. This year seems to be better. It would be great to have a go-to text to answer some of the dilemmas that arise. Jo @ Let’s Face the Music

  11. Elizabeth says

    My balcony garden is being eaten by sparrows. What’s the best way to discourage them from eating peas and lettuce?

  12. says

    I’d love a copy of this book! My question is the same as several others: What’s a good fertilizer to use on the veggie garden? I use kelp meal and fish emulsion already, do I need more than that?

  13. says

    Ooh, I would love a copy! My question is this: How can I make my own cost-effective potting soil? I have an ever-growing container garden and organic potting soil is expensive stuff!

  14. Trish says

    Mine is more kind of a meta-question: Is it rude to ask the vendors at the local farmers’ market for advice? They generate so much beautiful looking produce and my friend has no compulsion about asking them why the veggies we’re growing aren’t doing as well, but I always feel a little bit like it’s asking them to undercut their business.

    Our current concern is that our bok choy never forms nice heads. Last year I think it got too hot too early, so it all bolted. This year I think it’s not getting enough light.

  15. Rachel Haemmerle says

    This book looks great! My question would have to be – As a fresh college graduate with a small apartment and a smaller budget what are the best plants, techniques, and tools to give me the most bang for my buck?

  16. Debbie says

    I’ve planted my small bed & numerous pots, but neglected to add amendments – what can I do at this point? What is a good quality organic fertilizer? Thanks!

  17. Karen says

    philosophical question…why do people plant so much zucchini and then struggle to give it away?

  18. says

    I would love to be entered in your contest, and I would love to learn more about square foot gardening. I currently have four 4×6 raised garden beds and I’m experimenting with a hugelkultur. I would like to plant a tree and am trying to decide which tree would be best in a 10×13 space, or if that’s enough room for two trees.

  19. Shannon Zambito says

    I live in Portland, OR & I just started my very first organic vegetable garden in my backyard. I’ve never grown anything before! I’m so afraid of killing plants or having them devoured by pests. I try to read gardening tips from many sources, but feel overwhelmed by how much there is to learn & fearful that I will mess it all up. My biggest question is how do you balance planting enough vs. too much in your small space? I want to plant enough seeds to be able to select out the strongest ones, but then I don’t want to have so much going on in there that they can’t thrive & produce. signed, the virgin gardener

  20. says

    Oh, wow – I can’t even tell you what my biggest newbie question is…I have so many of them, and many have been covered here already. I successfully grew some tomatoes and peppers in old cat litter tubs last summer, but next year I will have my own little piece of urban paradise in Buffalo & I’ll be starting from scratch trying to design a space that is beautiful and productive. I’m adding this book to my library request list if I don’t win a copy! xo

  21. Denise says

    I have a new garden on a former lawn – and the vegetable plants are just sitting there looking puny. I know I should have done soil amending before I planted, but I didn’t, and now I have wimpy plants growing in clay-ey soil that’s clearly not providing them with what they need. What can I do now to give them a kick-start?

  22. says

    When I glanced at this post through Google Reader I saw part of the title as, ” . . . Spice Gardeners Must Flow.” Go right ahead, call me a geek, I can take it.

  23. Rosemeri says

    I have so many questions that it’s hard to pick just one. How much water do plants need and when to water are the hardest for me living in a high desert area. Sometimes, I think that I am over watering but I’m just not sure. Would love a copy of this book. Thanks

  24. says

    Pfft. What question DON’T I have. Loved their truck full of great stuff at the Flower Show 2 years ago- I think it even had chickens in it!

  25. says

    What advice do you have for parents of young kids? I want to involve my kids in gardening, but I worry my 3-year-old and maybe the 5-year-old will destroy the plants.

  26. TJ Stevens says

    We have flood irrigation. Awesome given that our water for the garden costs $30 a year. However we have to run the garden straight on the ground (as opposed to raised beds) and the water gets to it through channels between the rows. Is there anything I can mulch netween the rows with that wont wash away but that might keep the weeds down?

  27. says

    This looks like a great book! I’d love tips about how to keep neighborhood cats out of my new raised beds. Also, is tomato pruning necessary?

  28. Bham Megan says

    Please tell me how to get rid of morning glories. They have hopped a hard-won perimeter and are everywhere. Right now I’m just depriving them of leaves/growth to feed their roots and yanking them up wherever I see them, but I know the borg mothership is under there reaching for all corners. :( And if I take even a day or two off, I’ve lost SO much ground. Halp! :)

  29. Stephanie says

    I would love some tips on incorporating vegetables into my existing landscaping. I’m hoping that the pumpkins that I plant in the landscape will help to keep the weeds down as they grow and cover the ground!

  30. ashley c says

    I’m in my second summer of gardening and as someone that also lives in the Nw I want to try starts from seeds but things are So unprede with weather and frost dates that I just cant figure out when to do see statts

  31. says

    We’re in the Midwest and have several raised garden beds, as well as several in-ground beds. We use collected rain to water to the extent possible, but the process takes a day and forever since our tanks are just gravity fed. Any suggestions on faster watering systems (open to the idea of pumps, drip systems, soaker hoses, etc.) We just don’t know where to begin. Much as I love the “free” water, I’m secretly happy when we run out because watering with city water is so much faster. :(

  32. Chelsea Wipf says

    I am in my first season as a gardener…some of the things planted are doing fantastic (peas), and others are just barely making it (beets). I would love to know what kind of pests affect different veggies, and how to combat them organically.

  33. J Schmiett says

    This book looks awesome! I love composting coffee grounds and ash from our fire pit, but how much is too much? Does it need to be composted or can I just start adding it to the soil? Also, Cabbage Moths (Is that the correct name?) have moved in on my lettuce. How do I discourage them?

    Thank you for the give-away!

  34. Cyndi Kudelka says

    I am growing my first garden this year entirely in containers. I planted bush beans in a tub but want to know if I will get more if I put in a trellis, and will they grow up it?

  35. Stacy T says

    Is there a good calendar for northwest crop planting – especially winter crops?
    What are the best soil amendments and when do you add them?
    What is eating my kale?

  36. says

    I have loved rhubarb since I was little. My grandfather had plants in his backyard with leaves the size of elephant ears and nice substantial stalks. I purchased a nice healthy specimen 3 years ago and it’s only done ok in it’s fully sunny spot. I water, I fertilize, still no change. It starts each season sending up it’s flower, which I cut off and then only a few scrawny stalks take stage…I divided this spring and it’s going gang busters but still only pencil thin stalks! What can I do to beef those guys up?

  37. Jen Teal says

    My leeks got all woody in the center before I even thought to harvest them (they were still not much wider in diameter than my thumb) I’m leaving them to flower, but wondering if there are tricks for getting leeks to thicken up. Mine look like chives! Oh, and do bush beans need support? or can you just let them, well… bush. Thanks!

    • says

      Request a copy of the Irish Eyes seed catalog. They have a chart in there that lists which varieties are good for container growing. It also tells you tons of other info about potatoes so it’s a real resource.

  38. says

    I have a problem with flea beetles on my greens, they are eating them to pieces… any easy/organic way to keep them away?

  39. says

    look s like a good read and full of wisdom that i need plenty of. moved from huge garden in country that i threw seeds at the earth and i had a garden to city container gardening that really cramps my style if you get my meaning. would like to win the book , but if i don’t is it for sale anywhere?

  40. Erin Anderson says

    I would love a “cheat sheet” for estimating how much to plant to feed a given family size. This looks like a great book!

  41. Deon says

    I seem to have some sort of wilting blight that first killed the peas and now the tomatoes don’t look good. Do I have to exchange out the soil in my raised beds or is there something less expensive I could do?

  42. Gean Ann says

    Will your book convince me that my space available, sun available, time available is best spent growing food? I grow antique roses and perennials and while I have a miniscule portion allotted to vegetables, it seems to me the return isn’t worth the effort. If your book will show me I’m wrong I’m interested in having it.

  43. Tiff says

    What hasn’t been a newbie question coming from my mouth? LOL! I think the one that you ( Erica) have helped me with the most,is cantaloupe. I was so newbie I hadn’t ever been apart of a blog! So when my friend sent me a link to your page,well I froze! I just couldn’t join right away, not me! So I cheated and sent you an email wayyy back in January about growing cantaloupe in containers in this bog of an area western washington. I knew you would write, and if you did your response would be full of the ” are you kidding me’s?” But you did write, and you kept the ” this person must be brain damaged” tone out of your email. So I have been dreaming of this project since then and am almost there! The only thing you did tell me that well scared me was to ” make sure the trellis can handle the weight of an elephant” WTH?!? So I have had the time to find the perfect one, a wayward chain link gate awaits the vines that I pray will climb to the roof!

  44. Mica says

    I have a question!

    Is it possible to create your own compost system in an extra small space? Are there certain types of organic waste that will compost more quickly than others? I live in an apartment with a small balcony, where I grow beans, peas, carrots, lettuce, zucchini, herbs, and more! I want to “feed” my edible plants and reduce my kitchen waste, but I am afraid to try composting when I have such limited space!

      • Mica says

        How did I not know about this before???????

        Okay, that leads into a second question that someone may know the answer to:

        A google search shows that most people are DIY Vermicomposting in large rubbermaid-size bins. Although this is admittedly smaller than anything I’ve seen before….it would still be a pretty big space imposition in my tiny 1 bendroom, and DEFINITELY wouldn’t fit under my sink! Is it possible to replicate the same idea in, say, a 5-galleon pail? Or even something smaller?

        • says

          I’d say probably. It’s just a question of how much food waste can be handled at that size. You might not be able to handle all your food scraps with a small bin but it should still work in practice. Do you have a patio? You might think of keeping a few buckets and rotating them outside if it’s nice enough while they “finish” and just keep an active bin under the sink.

  45. says

    Nice tips! What I want to know is when to harvest my Walking Onions and how to use them? I started growing them last year, but mostly I’m just producing more plants. Also, I’m new-ish to gardening in the NW. How does anyone keep up with the slugs and snails? I have been using sluggo, but it is getting expensive!

    • says

      Sluggo is available at costco – ask me how I know. ;) After a few seasons the slug population gets knocked back and you don’t need as much. Hand snipping at nightfall is fast and chemical free too.

  46. Hyla says

    How do I deter deer naturally, without building a fence? I heard somewhere that human urine will do the trick but would love to know what options are out there. Sweet giveaway!

  47. Cece says

    Sounds like a lovely book! I have mud problems….which means I have drainage problems. Mulch? Ground cover? I don’t know!

    • says

      First, figure out why you have drainage problems. Is it a natural low-spot? Is the neighbor dumping their rainwater into your yard? Do you have an irrigation leak? Do you have a yard made of clay so drainage is just….suuupppppeerrrrr…..slllllooooowwww?

      Answer why your ground is wet to get an idea of how to address it. If it’s not something you can mitigate, raised beds will be your best bet. In my river bed-wet gardening area, my beds are raised 20 inches.

  48. says

    I have been living in Thailand with my family for the past 6 months, and am returning to Portland, OR, beginning of July. Our goal is to return home, and really get serious about urban farming. We currently have one raised bed, but have a decent amount of space to add 4 or 5 more. What are the best vegetables to plant in July? Also, where is the best place to plant raspberries or blackberries? Would love to win a copy of this book…I think it could really help us get our garden started right!

    • says

      check out my year round gardening calendar (under the downloadables tab) to see what can be done in july – lots!!

  49. Georgie says

    I tried to start an asparagus bed with one year crowns about 5 weeks ago. Unfortunately, no growth. I spot checked a couple crowns and they are not rotten, but don’t really appear to have any growth. Is this a fail or should I wait a little longer?

    • says

      I’d give it another year. Asparagus is a crop for the patient, and they are usually planted earlier in the year, like February. Gently dig down early next March. If you see root growth (thick whitish roots radiating out from the crown) your plants are fine. If you don’t find anything, you should replant. In the meantime, covercrop that space with something edible like lettuce or kale so you get something from the space this season.

  50. theresa says

    I JUST made beds and so am starting late to the season of veggie growing… I plan on planting this weekend and have rounded up some advice from friends etc… this book would be SO HELPFUL! As a very beginner, it seems so confusing about what to plant when/where… what crops can I still direct sow at this late date, and which ones should I buy starts of????

    • says

      No you are fine…this is the perfect time to start in with your fall and winter crops. Short season summer stuff like cukes can still go in now too. Check my year round veggie planting chart under downloadables, or look at the monthly to do lists.

  51. theresa says

    I JUST made beds and so am starting late to the season of veggie growing… I plan on planting this weekend and have rounded up some advice from friends etc… this book would be SO HELPFUL! As a very beginner, it seems so confusing about what to plant when/where… what crops can I still direct sow at this late date, and which ones should I buy starts of???? Oh, I forgot to say we live in Seattle.

  52. Lindsey says

    I have trouble not over or under fertilizing. How do I know when enough is enough or not enough? Thanks for the chance to win this book.

    • says

      Watch your plants. If they are growing strongly, they don’t need fertilizer. If they aren’t, they *might* need fertilizer…or they might have something else like water or root maggot issues going on. That said, a big handful of organic 5-5-5 per 4×8 bed in spring seems to be about right for me, plus a bit more on replanting.

    • says

      If you are just starting out, get a balanced organic fertilizer (usually 4-4-4 or 5-5-5…something like that). Whitney Farms makes a good one. Don’t use too much. I do a big handful per bed in spring, maybe a bit more later on if I replant with heavy feeders.

  53. Miina says

    I would love to learn more about what types of veggies to plant under larger/taller vegetables. Companion planting? I cannot figure out how to maximize my produce from my tiny garden box with the little sunshine we get as well as the success of the seeds I have planted. (Struggling with my seeds this year for cucumbers and squash. Arg!)

  54. Juliet says

    I’m in S. California and growing corn in my garden for the first time. The corn is about 15 feet tall now! And some of the stocks are falling over or getting knocked over by the wind. If I grow corn next year, what can I do differently in planting or staking before it gets so big?

    • says

      What a nice problem to have! :) I’m not sure – 15 foot corn is unheard of up here. Hopefully one of our high-heat readers can weigh in.

  55. Max Morgan says

    I’m plagued with root rot nematode. What’s the best organic way to eliminate with it?

    • says

      Oh God, Max, I’m sorry. I’ll let you know if I find anything….I think I’ve read that there are some botanical / fungal controls that show a lot of promise. Otherwise, plant things with agressive root systems, I guess. :( I will get in touch if I hear of a good control.

  56. Megan says

    What a fun interview. Thanks! I have a question about making my own compost: I have no trouble collecting “green” scraps to put into my compost pile, but since I rent my place, I don’t have access to many “browns” (like dried leaves or grass clippings). What are the best “browns” to use in this case?

    Also, how do I keep that horrible chipmunk from terrorizing my patio garden?

    • says

      Junk mail. Seriously, as long as it’s not shiny or coated, tear up or shred waste paper, newspaper, etc. and you’ve got a good “brown” to balance your greens.

  57. says

    I live in Everett, and have two issues I just cannot seem to overcome after years of trying myself at gardening. First off, fertilizing! It seems every plant needs different nutrients and if they are planted right next to each other one may need more than the other (even with companion planting in mind). Second our micro climate drives me bonkers. Down my street a neighbor may already have ripe tomatoes and mine are still green. Anyway, I won’t give up and still dream of my little suburban farm ; )

  58. Carly says

    I’m going to moving to a house with a yard in August. Will it be too late to plant tomatoes by then? I live in the Northeast US.

    • says

      Yes I think that will be too late, but tomatoes handle (large) containers well. Can you plant one now and take it with you?

  59. says

    I didn’t read through all the questions so this may have been asked already…
    When reading the spacing on seed packets, it will usually say something like, “Plant seeds with 3″ spacing in rows 36″ apart; thin seedlings to 6″ when…”
    As we are growing our garden in 4’x8′ raised beds, spacing the rows 36″ apart for something that is able to tolerate a neighbor six inches away in the other direction just doesn’t make sense to us. We will do that in the front yard where we don’t have raised beds and need to actually walk between the rows, but in the raised beds we would plant the above example in rows 6″ apart (since that is the final spacing recommended within the rows). Is that reasonable? Are we harming our production? We’ve done this the last couple years and it seems to be fine but who knows if we could be doing better?

    • says

      Yes, that is the rule of thumb with raised bed growing – you go the “space between plants” distance apart in all direction. You’ve got it. If things seem really crowded at that spacing (like I’d never do beets at 2″ apart final spacing, I like them at about 5″ final spacing) just give a bit more room. It sounds like your method is working well. :)

  60. sweet dick d says

    what are the best ways to deal with late blight in an organic way in a (very) small space garden in San Francisco if one wants to have nightshades more than once evry four years?

    • says

      If your garden is really small, these easiest way to dramatically reduce late blight is to never let your plants get wet. Blight thrives in cool, wet conditions and (I think) requires those conditions to “bloom.” Put a soaker hose on your bed or a dripper on your pot, lay clean plastic or organic mulch (like straw) over the soaker, and erect some sort of cloche to prevent rains from hitting your plants. Make sure to leave lots of airflow space. This should help a lot. Even rotation isn’t as effective as you’d hope, because the spores are airborne, not soil borne, as I understand it.

  61. Joetta Napolitan says

    How do you keep ‘pests’ such as flea beetles contained and prevent spreading in a small space garden? We have a few raised beds but one bed has had all the Cauliflower, Broccoli, Cabbage, and Brussel Sprouts decimated even though they are separated by things the beetles haven’t eaten. I’m afraid to replant until we have it under control but at the same time I’m afraid they will migrate to my squash, pumpkin, cucumbers and radish beds if I don’t as I’ve already started seeing them in my peas and bush beans. We are currently treating with an organic mix containing onion, garlic, cayenne pepper, baby shampoo and skim milk and have discussed trapping them with duct tape or fly strips. I’d rather not lose the whole garden but I don’t want to dump a bunch of chemicals on it either.

  62. says

    If I could focus on one type of fertiliser would you recommend getting a rom farm, a compost bin or access to chicken poo and which one of these would be the most all round useful?

  63. Wendy says

    What is the best way to get rid of crabgrass? I have a decent size lot on the side of my house and I have my veggie garden toward the front where the south sun is. I also have a corner of 2 streets planted with a manzanta and a maple for decoration for the street. In the corner planting we put down black plastic (early in my gardening years), the veggie bed we just put dirt on top with at least 8 +inches in the raised bed. Every year I go out and turn the dirt, pull the weeds and CRABGRASS and add amended soil. What else can I do? I really would love to make a lovely English garden type lay out with veggies, annuals, perennials and year round plants, but not if I have to pull crabgrass all the time.

  64. T Schladensky says

    I started gardening last year in a 48 square foot box. This year, my wonderful husband expanded the garden to around 750 square feet complete with stone walls and walkways. Our back yard in now entirely garden. We sifted and composted the hard clay soil, then trucked in organic garden soil to top it off. The plants are all thriving. It’s my oasis. We want to also garden during the winter months. I’m still learning and appreciate your wonderful blog and books like Colin & Brad’s. Thank you for helping all us newbie’s along.

  65. says

    I would like to know how to deter pests and neighborhood cats from using my raised bed garden as a litterbox. I’ve put up netting but they claw through it. And for pests I have slug drool on strawberries and holes in my bean leaves :(

    • says

      An excellent question. :) You’ll never get rid of it, but dedicated regular pulling will slow it down enough that it isn’t killing everything else. Sorry, it’s a doozy of a plant once it gets established. But don’t feel too bad, I don’t even thing spraying would be a permanent solution – you’d still end up pulling.

  66. says

    What’s the best way to ensure a prolific berry harvest? We have had blackberries, blueberries, raspberries and jostaberries for two summers. Do we just need to be patient for another couple years in order to expect more than a handful of berries? (Our garden is in Missouri.)

    • says

      Berries on bushes will give a better and better harvest as they get older and stronger. Cane fruit should give you a good yield from year 2 or 3 on. Make sure to prune – cane fruit needs pruning – and feed them. Having bees around will help, too, so make sure you have a good native population of pollinators or start keeping mason bees (they are very easy and cheap compared to honeybees). I throw coffee grounds all around my blueberries. It seems to help. Also, some years are just better than others for fruit, and that’s not in your control. :)

  67. Caria says

    I am a reluctant gardener who doesn’t know where to begin. How late in the season can you start a herb garden?

  68. Madison says

    Sounds like a good book! my question is is it really nessesarry ro remove the suckers from a tomato plant? one year I didn’t and the suckers actually grew tomatos on them.

    • says

      I remove suckers from indeterminate tomatoes but I just let determinates do whatever they want. There are as many ways to train tomatoes as there are gardeners. If your way works for you, it works! :)

  69. Chuck Root says

    I just planted my first square foot garden this year, and I will definitely be reading everything about what you are doing …. keep up the good work and so far I really enjoy what I’m reading …. this is all trial and error …. I would attach a picture, but I don’t know how :-)

  70. says

    I have some sad little kale seedlings that just can’t seem to get a leg up. They get plenty of sun and water, but they only grow a few centimeters before they start to look sickly and just seem to give up and lie down. Any ideas what might be going on, and if there’s anything I can do to help them out?

    • says

      Yes, I have an idea. You probably have root maggots of some kind. They seem particularly bad this year to me. Dig one up with a good size root ball and the soil around the roots, move it someplace away from your garden, and start investigating the roots, particularly near the tap root. Look for little white grubs. If you have root maggots, there are some nematodes that are supposed to help, and you’ll want to use a paper collars and some kind of a soil-protector made from sawdust or an old carpet pad or something when you plant brassicas from now on.

  71. Lynn says

    The book looks wonderful! I would love to know if there is any way to deter deer and rabbits without a fence??? We live in an area where the deer have lost a great deal of their natural habitat and seem to have chosen our garden as a munch stop….

  72. marci says

    It’s still raining in NW Oregon and I missed spring planting. Going to start in with fall crops on a patio. What are the best veggies for patio container crops in a place that gets noon til setting sun, what little sun we have. All is under a 10×20 ft greenhouse clear glass roof, but windy still.

  73. says

    I would love to know which crops are most cost effective for home gardeners…especially in Seattle. Thanks for your awesome work!

    • says

      Herbs, without a doubt, are the best bang for your buck in terms of cost at market and area of space needed to get a good harvest. I would say, after the perennial and annual herbs, the salad greens and the cooking greens like kale, collards, and chard.

  74. LaRue Cobb says

    When it comes to those coffee grounds-I have alot-If you compost them will they still help the soil?? And do they still make the soil too acidic?

  75. Mysti says

    How does one grow healthy basil in the PNW? I come from interior Alaska, where I never had a problem growing beautiful bushy basil – I’ve been here in Seattle for 10 years now, and have not had success yet… Thanks!!

  76. Jill says

    Where exactly do earwigs fit in the food chain scheme of things? I mean really. I never see a bird eating them, my dog won’t eat them, are they high in protein and we should eat them? We can’t have chickens here, so I’m not sure if they would eat them anyway. I’ve got plenty to share if anyone wants some! :o) Seriously, I guess my question is… how do you really get rid of the things?

  77. Kelli says

    I grow only container gardens (apartment living), I add coffee grounds and tea leaves to the containers, could this be why my basil looks very yellow. On a side not I live in western oregon, too little sun perhaps?

  78. Stephanie says

    Do you have a schedule/calendar of what you plant and when? Does it include seed starting and what is ok to direct sow as seed?

  79. Alice says

    I live in Chicago and our soil has a high pH. What is the best way to make our soil more acidic?

  80. Mia says

    WoW the book looks good. My question is how to garden in the front yard? My front yard has the best sunlight available, but I get a ton of people and dogs who like my yard for different reasons. I would like to put a full garden out front, but I have to keep aesthetics in mind as well as exposure to problem people or animals.

  81. Holly R says

    My radishes were tiny this year. I have never had that problem. They grew so slowly until it finally got hot enough and they bolted! They were woody and hot from being in the ground for so long. I planted them a few inches apart, seemed like proper spacing. What could cause this? Anyone have any ideas?

  82. says

    I enjoyed your blog, and the book looks like something I would get alot of use out of.

    I’m growing beets for the first time, amongst the rest of my first-time garden, and was wondering, if/when I could harvest some of these beautiful leaves for a salad? Do I just take one per beet, can I take more? Does it harm the growth of the beet if I remove too many?

    I know, that was more than one question, but I’v only grown herbs and tomatoes before, so I’m pretty new at this!

    Thanks for any insight.

  83. says

    my biggest gardening struggle this year is identifying pests. I have several varieties of plants that are just getting riddled with holes in the foliage, and I’ve ruled out slugs and we’ve been good about keeping the chickens out. Even some of the plants in my green house have been affected (I swear I’ll never get enough basil to make a single caprese salad at this rate!).